Pattern Fitting | American Sewing Guild ~ Los Angeles Chapter

Methods of Pattern Fitting
By Jeanette Swanson

There are several methods of pattern fitting but one thing is certain. You want your garment to fit after you spend all that time and money on it, right? Let’s explore them.

Seam Method (aka, Slash and Spread, Pivot and Slide)
Definition: This method is fitted using measurements from your body that are then transferred onto the pattern tissue. The pattern tissue is then pin fit or a muslin is made to fine tune the fit.
Pros: It is easier to fit yourself by yourself with this method. It is relatively straight forward.
Cons: It is an extra step to perform. You have to pin fit or make a muslin anyway.
Resources: Pattern Fitting with Confidence book and DVD by Nancy Zieman. Fitting and Pattern Alteration by Liechty, Rasband, Pottberg-Steineckert. The Perfect Fit book by Creative Publishers International. The Sew/Fit Manual by Ruth Oblander.

Tissue Fitting Method
Definition: The tissue is pinned and draped for fit. Changes are made to the tissue before cutting fashion fabric.
Pros: Only one or two measurements are taken to find initial size. It is easy.
Cons: It is difficult to fit yourself by yourself. Tissue does not behave like fabric and can be a challenge.
Resources: Fit for Real People book and DVD by Pati Palmer & Marta Alto. The Perfect Fit book by Creative Publishers International.

Muslin Fitting Method
Definition: A muslin fabric is used to baste together pattern pieces which are then draped on the body for fit. Changes are made to the muslin and then transferred back to the pattern tissue.
Pros: Muslin can be easier to drape than tissue. It is easy.
Cons: It is difficult to fit yourself by yourself. You have to transfer changes to tissue (extra step).
Resources: The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen. “Achieving Great Fit with Muslins” DVD by Peggy Sagers. “Threads Fitting DVD Series” by Threads Magazine.